Fika (pronounced Fee-ka) is a Swedish tradition of coffee with sweets galore. Other refreshments are also available but the locals prefer their strong black brew. It was early Spring in Uppsala, a university town north of Stockholm, with the snow not completely melted and temperatures in the minus. Each afternoon I eagerly entered a cosy café for a warming and delicious experience. Having not learnt much about this important moment in Swedes’ daily lives, I quickly observed that marzipan treats are on offer around Easter time in all kinds of shapes; sugary chickens, rabbits, and intricately decorated eggs bring a smile to my face. Semlor buns are another Easter treat; a sweet bun with a heart of almond paste beneath a crown of fresh cream and capped with a little piece of the roll.
Princesstårta (princess cake) and operåtarta (opera cake) have pride of place. Both a magnificent layering of light sponge cake, fresh cream, mock cream, and raspberry jam. Both are finished with a covering of thin colourful marzipan; princess green or opera pink. The final touch is a marzipan rose and leaf. The marzipan must also keep the cake nice and fresh by sealing in moisture. Last but not least, kanelbulle (cinnamon buns) are popular all year round with coils of buttery cinnamon and sugar between doughy layers and sprinkled with white pearl sugar.
Uppsala’s well-known historical café, Ofvandahls, is heaving with fika customers at 4:30pm on the sunny, freezing spring day. The princess cake just beckoned me to try its delicate mysteries. My first taste was not a disappointment; pretty, light-hearted, sweet-natured, and creamy-complexioned – the qualities of any worthy princess.
I adore Ofvandahls’ traditional décor of striped wallpaper and heavy curtains, velvet couches, potted plants, chandeliers, and guild-framed paintings. The refillable drinks station has gorgeous silver service urns and citrusy jugs of ice water.
On another chilly afternoon, I enter Storken Kafferummet (Stork coffee room) up a winding flight of stairs and am first impressed by the huge black and white etching of Uppsala in days gone by. Again, the cosy traditional décor is just so inviting and a little more eclectic this time. With the soft furnishings and refillable drinks station, an Uppsala student could easily wile away the hours by a window. Zero degrees outside, meant I also intended to do just that. The huge glass showcase is just as interesting as the décor. Bliss.
On a weekend in Stockholm, I stopped for lunch at the famous Vete-Katten Caferum (Wheat Cat coffee rooms) recommended to me by a German friend who lived in this elegant capital for several years. I was awe-struck. A huge venue on the corner of 55th Street and King street. In the back is a winding rabbit warren of adjoining coffee rooms all filled with intimate table and chairs and a 1920s theme. The street frontage with tall windows streaming in light, has an open eatery called The Bridge as well as a takeaway store. Every table was full of hungry customers. I pounced at the last free table on the brighter, modern side and longingly looked towards the cosy, private, and full back of house. I’ll have to return to experience both ambiences. I noticed a newspaper clipping pinned near the exit that showed Vete-Katten coffee rooms as the best kanelbulle (cinnamon buns) in Stockholm. As tempting as that was I couldn’t resist a beautiful slice of swiss roll filled with fruit and custard. I also ate a fresh-filled smorgås (open sandwich) with typical wholesome European bread.
Later in the day, I discovered Café anno 1700 on the corner of a narrow street in the old town of Gamla Stan Island, another refreshing refuge with amazing atmosphere. Low roof beams and imperfect white-washed walls, each echoed its historical bearing. I was also intrigued that it could only seat 12 places. A fresh pink tulip on each table reminded me that I was in Europe. I enjoyed a gorgeous cup of rose-infused tea from their gourmet collection and wondered how many came before me in 250 years, to take refuge from the brisk coastal breeze skirting Stockholm’s islands. This is exactly how I love to travel, slowly savouring the culture as I discover new places and food, that just happen to be icons because they are so special.